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Why Is Your Lip Balm Not Working? — An Expert Answers

Dr. Leena Ravindra

14-Jan-2026

Why Is Your Lip Balm Not Working? — An Expert Answers

Coating your lips alone is not enough to keep them healthy. You need to repair your lips and here’s how you can do it.

Inputs by: Dr. Leena Ravindra, Key opinion leader at Sebamed

Chapped lips are often dismissed as a seasonal nuisance, but from a dermatological perspective, they are a sign of a compromised skin barrier. Unlike the rest of the body, the lips lack oil glands, making them especially vulnerable to moisture loss, environmental stress, and repeated irritation. Yet most people respond by reaching for cosmetic lip balms that promise instant relief – without realising that many of these products mask the problem, not repair it.

The reason many lip balms fail lies in how they work. Conventional formulations often rely heavily on occlusive agents that sit on the surface of the lips, creating a temporary film that makes them feel smoother. While this coating can reduce immediate discomfort, it does little to restore the skin’s natural barrier. In fact, once the product wears off, the lips are often left drier than before, creating a cycle of constant reapplication without long-term improvement.

What Works for Effective Lip Care?

True lip repair requires addressing barrier damage at a cellular level. When the skin barrier is weakened, it loses its ability to retain moisture and protect against irritants. Effective lip care, therefore, must focus on replenishing lipids, calming inflammation, and supporting the skin’s natural healing process – rather than simply sealing in dryness.

Ingredients such as jojoba oil play a key role in this process. Structurally similar to the skin’s natural sebum, jojoba oil helps restore lost lipids without clogging or suffocating the skin. Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, supports repair by protecting lip cells from oxidative stress while improving moisture retention. Meanwhile, calming botanicals like chamomile help reduce micro-inflammation, which is often overlooked but central to recurring cracking and sensitivity.

Another overlooked factor is pH balance. Healthy skin functions best at a slightly acidic pH, which supports enzyme activity involved in barrier repair and keeps harmful microbes in check. Lip care products that respect this natural pH help the skin heal more effectively, reducing the likelihood of repeated dryness and fissures.

Ultimately, healthy lips are not achieved through constant coating but through consistent barrier repair. When lip care focuses on restoring what the skin has lost rather than masking symptoms, the lips regain their ability to protect themselves. The result is not just temporary softness but long-term resilience, fewer cracks, and a noticeable reduction in recurring dryness.

Cover Credits: iStock

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