Akanksha Sharma
21-Aug-2026
Skincare acids promise smoother, brighter skin, but jumping in too quickly can do more harm than good. Here’s how to give your skin time to adapt.
By Akanksha Sharma, Co-Founder & CEO, CITTA
In Photo: Akanksha Sharma
A dermatologist I follow recently elaborated why so many people end up with irritated, peeling skin within days of using a skincare active. It came down to something most people are never told: acids aren't meant to be used at full strength from day one, regardless of how convincing the reviews look.
Most people discover acids through a reel or a ‘get glass skin’ video, not through anyone explaining what these ingredients do to the skin. And with how reactive our skin already is, thanks to heat, humidity, pollution, and hard water, jumping into a strong active without any prior skincare routine is asking for trouble.
Let's slow down and talk about this.
The Different Types of Acids, and What They Do
When it comes to skincare, there are dozens of different acids used across formulations, though they generally fall into four primary categories.
AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid, work on the surface of the skin, breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells so they shed more evenly. BHAs, mainly salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, so they work their way into the pore lining, which is why they are often recommended for oily and combination skin types. PHAs like gluconolactone work similarly to AHAs, but their larger molecular size means they penetrate more gradually, making them a reasonable starting point for reactive skin. The fourth category covers acid-adjacent actives such as ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, and mandelic acid, along with retinoids, which are not technically acids but follow the same logic since they influence cell turnover in a similar way.
Each one interacts with skin differently, at a different depth and pace. Using them like they are interchangeable is where most of the redness, breakouts, and “why is my skin suddenly so sensitive” moments come from.
Every Active Comes with a Trade-off
Acids work precisely because they are potent, and that same potency is what disrupts your skin barrier when it is introduced too quickly, before your skin has had any time to build tolerance.
The skin barrier is the outermost layer, made up of skin cells held together by lipids, and its job is to keep moisture in and irritants out. Every time you use an acid that exfoliates or speeds up cell turnover, it is asking that barrier to do more work than usual. A barrier that has been gradually trained can keep up. One that has never encountered an active before, or is already under strain, cannot absorb the same input without reacting. What shows up next is redness, tightness, flaking, or a breakout that gets mistaken for ‘purging’ when it is often just irritation.
How to Introduce an Acid
This part it not complicated, but it requires patience.
Before adding any acid, make sure your barrier is healthy. If your skin is already reacting to your regular products, feels tight right after cleansing, or looks flushed and sensitive without much provocation, that is usually a sign that it needs repair first, not another active layered on top. A simple routine for you would be using a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturiser, and daily sunscreen for a couple of weeks. It is often enough to get the skin to a stable baseline before you introduce anything stronger.
Once your barrier starts feeling healthy, start with a lower percentage and a lower frequency, two to three nights a week rather than daily. Give it two to three weeks before deciding whether to increase strength or frequency. Introduce one new active at a time, so that if your skin does react, you know which active caused it. Do not skip your barrier repair moisturiser and sunscreen through any of this. Hydrated and protected skin can handle actives far better than a dehydrated and damaged one.
This is something we talk about a lot at CITTA, because we would rather someone build a routine that works for their skin long term than chase a quick fix that does more harm than good.
Where Beginners Should Begin
If you are new to acids, a low-percentage lactic acid or a PHA like gluconolactone is usually the gentlest place to start, since they do not penetrate as deep. Salicylic acid at a low concentration works well if clogged pores or breakouts are your main concern, provided it is not layered with other actives from day one. Vitamin C at a stable, moderate strength is another reasonable entry point if antioxidant protection is what you are after.
Higher percentages, stronger acids, and retinoids can come later, once your skin has shown it can handle the gentler ones without reacting. Start with one active and let your skin get used to it before adding others or moving up to higher concentrations for a stronger effect.
The Bottom Line
Actives like acids do not need to be feared. When used correctly, they are some of the most effective ingredients available for skin concerns. But that effectiveness only works if your skin has been given the time to adjust to the active.
Your skin does not respond to how many reviews a product has online. It responds to what it has built tolerance for. Give your skin the time it needs, and you will see far better results in the long run.
Credits: Unsplash
