Akansha Dean
17-Dec-2025
BrijRama Palace, an 1812 marvel perched on the sacred Ganges, sweeps you into a whirlwind of royal history, modern luxury, and the timeless magic of Varanasi.
To say I arrived in style would be an understatement. Picture this, it’s dawn, the Ganges is veiled in a soft mist, and I’m on a wooden boat, chugging lazily toward what looks like the set of a period drama. BrijRama Palace, glowing golden and lordly on Darbhanga Ghat, loomed in the distance. ‘This can’t be real,’ I thought, as the palace’s sandstone walls, aged to perfection, came into focus. There’s no driveway here, no front desk with an automatic door. You sail in, step out like royalty, and ascend the grand stone staircase that’s weathered feet from another century. I could hear temple bells in the distance as a cool river breeze carried the unmistakable scent of sandalwood into the air. I hadn’t even entered the palace yet, but somehow, I already knew this was no ordinary stay.
INSIDE: WHERE THE WALLS SPEAK
Entering BrijRama isn’t like walking into a hotel, it’s like being whispered into a bygone world. The first thing that hit me wasn’t the grandeur but a sense of stillness, like the walls themselves were holding their breath. And then the details began to draw me in, the mirrorwork glinting in the soft flicker of oil-lit ‘diyas’, sandstone pillars adorned with dolphin carvings, and the light, oh, the light, spilling gracefully through antique openings onto Radha and Krishna statues that have called this courtyard home for centuries. But BrijRama doesn’t just flaunt its history, it charms you with it. One showpiece that caught me off guard? An elevator, installed back in the 19th century, one of Asia’s very first. Riding it felt like a time warp, but somehow it fit perfectly amid the wafting aroma of masala chai and the nodding ceiling fans spinning their ancient rhythms. The place is a visual love story between Maratha opulence and a splash of Greco-Roman drama. Frescoes drape every corner with stories you wish you could touch. Even the air seems older, filled with the hums of songs, debates, and prayers that these walls have borne witness to.
WHERE LUXURY MEETS LEGACY
Perched on the precipice of eternity, or at least it feels that way, ‘The Varuna Burj Room’ unfolds like a dream. Semicircular in its grandeur, this one-of-a-kind space cradles a 180-degree panorama of the Ganges, its endless crescent sweeping past time itself. Standing there, I felt like some ancient emperor gazing at his vast, murmuring dominion. Early mornings, the sun stretched gentle fingers across the ghats, bathing walls in a mosaic of golden light and dusky shadows, while the river became more than a view, it felt alive, cinematic in its storytelling.
I was staying at the Maharaja Suite and opening the door to my room felt like stepping into a treasure chest. There were rich Banarasi silks sprawled generously across the mattress, screaming ‘regal’ without a hint of modesty. The antique wooden furniture creaked just enough to feel meaningful, and even the intricate carvings on every corner seemed to contest my attention. Morning chai by the window was my favourite ritual. The view? The Ganges, mighty as ever, rhythmically weaving its way past Hindu priests lighting fires and pilgrims bathing in devotion. I thought about how the room’s old-world grandeur, despite its modern amenities, somehow made me feel more present, like I was part of a slow-moving tapestry of time. It was luxurious without being flashy, comfortable without interrupting the spirit of the place.
HERITAGE AT ITS BEST
The palace, whispers history in every detail. Corridors twinkle with intricate mirrorwork, each mural catching the soft glow of traditional lamps, like fireflies trapped in starlight. By night, Brijrama dons a reverent glow, its antique soul flickering alive in the shadows. The heart of this haven, the ‘Bada Aangan’, is a stage, nightly gifting performances, classical renditions or electrifying kathak dancers, leaving a resonant hum in your chest.
And then there’s the food. ‘Darbhanga’s’ pure vegetarian thali is a culinary homecoming, dum aloo spiced like an embrace, crispy sago papad as delicate as silence, and the signature Banarasi paan, a poetic ode to the city itself. Cravings for the world? The chef obliges with seamless flair. But ‘Aangan’, oh, ‘Aangan’. Think ancient culinary traditions reborn, where saffron-drenched ‘malaiyo’ whispers of winter joys. Dining after the Ganga Aarti? Pure transcendence. By the time I left, the same stairs that had greeted me seemed sad to see me go. But from the boat, as the palace faded into the horizon, I couldn’t help but think, once you’ve stayed here, some part of you belongs to BrijRama forever. It’s not just a hotel, it’s the heartbeat of Banaras, dressed up like a royal heirloom. At night, as the Ganges shimmered under a starry sky and the palace basked in soft golden light, I realised something profound: you don’t just ‘visit’ BrijRama, you let it ‘happen’ to you.
FAST FACTS
BRIJRAMA PALACE
Where? Darbhanga Ghat, Dashashwamedha, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India
Call: +918069057704
Web: https://www.brijhotels.com/hotels/siddhi/brijrama-palace/
