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7. BEING WITH THE BRAHMAPUTRA

Wellness feels like a fairytale in the middle of the mighty Brahmaputra as it flows through the heart of Assam

I step into the speedboat, closing my eyes as if in a quiet, intention ceremony, letting myself slip into the peaceful vitality of my surroundings. It is my first trip to Assam, and I am standing by the flourishing Brahmaputra, hearing the strong swish of the water, cupped by the green Purvanchal mountains as nature’s deft hands deftly take over to stroke my soul into a sea of wellness.

Call it a holistic crucible shaped by the sun, sky, river, and mountains. The gentle, rhythmic hum of the engine takes me on the boat across the strong current of the Brahmaputra, from Lachit Ghat to Sandbar island - A large sandy spread that emerges from the belly of the river, annually for only six months. The river is dotted with a multitude of tiny sandy tracts that see the sun when winter sets in, and disappear below the run of the water as the monsoon rolls in.

White tufted clouds move across the blue skies, and with the cool breeze moving through my hair with careless ease, I look around to soak up my surroundings: the bobbing tents and stalls at Lachit Ghat, marking the Brahmaputra Carnival at the Ghat, dwindling slowly in the distance, a few odd birds circling lazily above the water, other boats chugging past at a distance across the robust breadth of the Brahmaputra as I move towards the jetty at Sandbar island.

A sense of relaxation envelops me like a warm hug, as I drop into the lap of nature. Walking along the sandy stretch by the river, kayaking at leisure, hearing the gentle swish of the my oars as they gently part the water, soaking up the colours of sunset on the machaan and then watching the fog slowly moving in to swallow the view, toasting marshmallows in the bonfire at night and glamping on the island…the soothing run of the day into the night composing the gentle hum of my stay on the island. I feel wellness circles luxury of a different kind. The rush of the clean air up my nostrils, the touch of the chilly river water at the crack of dawn, the sheer beauty of sitting on the bank and staring into the constant flow of the river, for hours: Living on an island in the middle of a city, I experience the blessing of the river moving inside me.

Birdsong and sunshine mix in with the music of the Assamese artistes at Lachit Ghat when I return to the banks the following day to enjoy the Brahmaputra Carnival that knits together the essence of Assam . It is a colourful confluence of culture, food and experiences. The simple local dishes - duck gravy, pork belly wrapped up in banana leaf, pitha, barbequed silkworms and coconut-jaggery ladoos together with rice beer, the riot of hues running through the embroidery on tribal shawls, the curious bamboo and cane artifacts, the traditional charm of the Bihu dance come together in a warm, soul-stirring rendition here. And then mysticism takes over as I make my way up the hills to the revered Kamakhya Maa temple, one of the oldest shakti peeths in the world. Believed to be the seat of tantric magic, the quiet energy on the premises wraps me in a reassuring embrace the moment I walk into the premises marked by gigantic bells, chants, lit diyas, and thousands of devotees moving in quiet reverence.

If you aren’t looking for swanky spas and Michelin-starred dinners, the honest wellness vibe of Guwahati is a magnetic draw unto itself. Savour it in all simplicity. Just as nature meant it to be.

(The Brahmaputra Carnival at Lachit Ghat in Guwahati, ends on March 15, 2025)