Shilpi Madan
18-Dec-2025
Kolkata-based fashion designer Rohan Pariyar breaks new ground with his ode to baroque corsetry unfurling in the first-ever show against the backdrop of the Victoria Memorial.
It’s a labour of love for designer Rohan Pariyar.
Forty fabulous designs shaped to life by 15 dedicated artists for 20 months: His I Medici collection that recently unveiled in a stunning show, the first-ever at the iconic Victoria Memorial in Kolkata, is a nod to the treasured narrative in fashion and culture nourished by the erstwhile regent of France, Catherine de Medici.
Rohan’s creations have elevated the art of corsetry in suave and stylish silhouettes. Over the years, his atelier, Rohan Pariyar Studios has dressed celebrities including Raima Sen, Mimi Chakraborty, Paoli Dam, Gargi Roy Chowdhaury, Subhashree Ganguly, and Parno Mittra.
Excerpts from a conversation:
1. Review for us your journey in the world of fashion so far.
From my first attempt at creating a collection as a college student in 2012 to launching my first flagship store in 2025, the journey has truly been a roller coaster. I’ve received appreciation as well as criticism; I’ve faced losses and have been forced to consider shutting down several times. Had it not been for my parents and my incredible team, who have stood by me and my vision since 2020, three of my most acclaimed collections would never have seen the light of day. In the end, it has been an immense learning process, and I believe we are now more prepared than ever to sustain ourselves in the industry.
2. Share with us the genesis of the collection I Medici
I Medici is an intensely personal collection. It stems from my memories of, and deep love for Florence – its art and architecture. I felt a strong attraction to the story of the Medici family, especially Catherine de Medici. An Italian noblewoman married to a French king, she was a pioneer of modern fashion through her introduction of performances, operas, corsets, and heels at the French court. The colours of the collection are inspired by the works of Florentine Renaissance painter Sandro Botticelli. The motifs draw from architectural structures commissioned by Medici predecessors such as Cosimo and Lorenzo de Medici.
3. What made Victoria Memorial the perfect backdrop to showcase the creations?
As I finished drafting the collection, I had the opportunity to speak with the Consul General of Italy in 2023. He showed great interest in the project, as it explored an important chapter of Italian history. I studied in Milan and owe much of my skill set to Italy. Together, we wanted to showcase what exposure to Italian art, architecture, fashion, and history can do for a designer. I chose and strongly insisted on Victoria Memorial because of its sheer grandeur. It stands as the largest monument to a monarch and a powerful testament to history, much like this collection. Additionally, the Italian-inspired architecture of Victoria Memorial Hall, along with its use of Italian marble and design elements, created a natural connection to the project.
4. What determined the colour palette?
The colour palette is inspired by several paintings of Sandro Botticelli depicting the Madonna or the Virgin Mary, with children around her – many of which I saw at the Uffizi Gallery in 2018. The fabrics used are raw silk and silk satin, reflecting both the simplicity and grandeur of materials used in that era. We deliberately avoided textures, self-embroidery, or modern fabrics to retain the purity of the silhouettes and surfaces.
5. Trace the journey of corsetry in your collections.
Over my last four collections, I’ve explored corsetry in diverse ways. The Art of Corsetry in 2023, my first official collection after completing my education, showcased corsets in brocades, self-textured fabrics, sequins, and silks—introducing multiple options for modern fashion enthusiasts. Louis XIV focused on blending brocades with zardozi embroidery, featuring baroque influences and merging French and Indian sensibilities. This collection presented corsets styled traditionally and later paired with sarees.
Talk of the Stars drew its colour palette from painter Van Gogh’s Starry Night and introduced a signature embroidery across multiple hues, positioning corsets as cocktail wear. With I Medici, the focus shifted to a different side of corsetry - using minimal embroidery on raw silk and silk satin to showcase an exceptional blend of Indian craftsmanship and Italian sensibilities.
6. What was the biggest challenge while working on this collection?
The presentation. I was questioned repeatedly for months about the collection—its historical significance, inspiration, and the justification for showcasing it at Victoria Memorial. Creating the collection itself was relatively easy, but articulating its depth and defending it through extensive presentations was entirely new and extremely challenging for me.
7. What’s the best part about being Rohan Pariyar?
Having an incredible team. I’ve managed to keep them closely knit while continuing to grow together. Without this team, my friends, and my parents’ unwavering support, none of this would have been possible. The best part about me is truly the people around me my greatest blessings.
8. A pearl of wisdom for aspiring designers.
Focus on what genuinely interests you rather than chasing trends or market data. Success is driven by ability, not numbers. If you stay true to your style, design philosophy, and craftsmanship, your work will sell. Originality in thought is what truly matters so listen to your heart and follow your authentic design ideas.
9. What’s been your biggest learning?
Listen to everyone, but ultimately follow your heart. For creative individuals or teams, instinct is the most powerful force. Reflection is important, but originality can only emerge when you stay true to your inner voice. That’s how something truly unique is created.
10. What’s next for the label?
The pressure is real after the museum show and the Victoria Memorial Hall presentation. With the show at Victoria Memorial, we have raised the bar. Ideas are already flowing in to realise something exciting, unlike anything seen before. For now, though, it remains a well-guarded secret.
