While the traditional red in bridal couture remains a leitmotif, designers have weaved new expressions of couture and nowhere could we feel its impact more than at FDCI India Couture Week 2023. Think of a diversity of silhouettes, sheer embroidered blouses, a range of flamboyant covetable bralettes, jackets, capes, and the everlasting love for muted tones and pastels. Blurring the lines between traditional and modern aesthetics, designers this season presented new-age silhouettes with contemporary cuts and modern fits on the runway. Here are some of the trends that spoke to our hearts.
Feathers and Fancy
The runway verdict is crystal clear: Feathers have become a sartorial staple on the bridal fashion tableau. With its widespread adoption by designers like Falguni Shane Peacock, Suneet Varma, Dolly J, and Varun Bahl, it’s evident that feathers are here to stay and will continue to make a statement in the bridal fashion scene. Both lehengas and gowns received the avian touch, with opulent fur and feather embellishments gracing veils, hems, sleeves, and intricate embroideries.
Welcome to Cape Town
For those who dread carrying dupattas, capes are back in vogue to save the day. The runway witnessed a gamut of chic variations, including the enchanting cape sleeves paraded by Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna and the captivating hooded capes by Rajesh Pratap Singh. The charismatic Janhvi Kapoor graced Gaurav Gupta’s Hiranyagarbha showcase in an electric blue lehenga adorned with hand-embroidered beads and a floor-sweeping cape that stole the limelight. Sara Ali Khan took the ramp as Shantanu & Nikhil’s showstopper, donning a chic nude lehenga paired with a refreshingly fuss-free dupatta alternative.
A Modern Take on Dhotis
The runway unveiled a remarkable fusion of classic and contemporary, breathing new life into men’s traditional clothing. The stage was graced with a stunning array of timeless pieces, including sherwanis and kurtas, paired with inventive interpretations of the dhoti. Kunal Rawal’s collection stood out, with Ranbir Kapoor as the showstopper adorned in a unique dhoti-trouser hybrid. Luminaries like Tarun Tahiliani and Rimzim Dadu also jumped on the bandwagon and infused dhotis into their designs and imaginatively paired them with opulent wedding separates like regal jackets and resplendent bandhgalas. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s leather longline jackets paired with a lungi and a white linen jacket were an example of the modern take on dhotis.
The Mermaid Slit
The love affair between designers and thigh-high slits has made its way into bridal wear. Most of the showstoppers wore high-slit skirts paired with embroidered blouses. Kiara Advani’s elegant pink ensemble by Falguni and Shane Peacock, Bhumi Pednekar’s dazzling golden outfit by Varun Bahl, Sobhita Dhulipala and Disha Patani’s shimmering ensembles, and Ananya Panday’s stunning gold slit skirt, made it evident that these tailored mermaid ensembles were more than just a passing trend.
For the Love of Pastels
With a soft palette of pastels and pinks, the designer duo Shantanu and Nikhil declared their love for muted tones with Sara Ali Khan and Aditya Roy Kapur as their showstoppers. The couture show by Anamika Khanna combined modern and traditional elements with a focus on antique aesthetics, pearls, pastel colours, and ivory. Rimzim Dadu, a debutant in the India Couture Week, painted the runway in several pastel shades with her lehengas and saris.
