GlobalSpa
12-Oct-2024
The world of fashion is a mirror, reflecting not only the aesthetics of a time but also its values, beliefs, and struggles. At its best, fashion transcends its commercial objectives to become an art form that both shapes and is shaped by culture. Today, one of the most profound evolutions we are witnessing on the runway is the rise of inclusivity—a movement that has demanded the industry to reckon with its history and redefine its future. For far too long, the runway was a narrow stage—both literally and metaphorically. It was a place where only a specific type of beauty was celebrated, a rigid standard that left little room for diversity. The fashion industry often indulged in exclusivity, reinforcing an ideal that was aspirational but ultimately alienating for most. But the tides have shifted, and what we now see is not just an evolution in design but in thought—a broadening of horizons that opens space for more voices, more stories, and more bodies to be seen and celebrated.
I have always believed that fashion is much more than the cut of a garment or the colour of a fabric; it’s a form of self-expression, a language that speaks to our identity, aspirations, and history. When I think of inclusivity, I think of how that language must evolve to be more nuanced, and more reflective of the richness of human experience. Inclusivity isn’t a trend; it’s a necessity—a call for empathy, for understanding, for celebrating the differences that make us all uniquely beautiful. But this journey towards inclusivity wasn’t sudden. It has been a slow, often painful, progression. Historically, the runway celebrated an ideal that was euro-centric, thin, and often unattainable. Models of colour, plus-sized bodies, differently-abled individuals—all were conspicuously absent, their exclusion a silent but powerful message about who was deemed worthy of being seen and admired. However, as with all great shifts in culture, change began at the margins, driven by those who refused to be invisible.
The 1960s and 1970s were a critical period of awakening for many industries, including fashion. It was in these decades that the first significant strides toward racial inclusivity on the runway began to take root. Models like Naomi Sims and Beverly Johnson broke barriers, with Johnson becoming the first Black woman to appear on the cover of American Vogue in 1974. These were not just symbolic moments; they were seismic shifts in the perception of beauty, challenging a global audience to reconsider what fashion—and by extension, society—considered aspirational. What excites me most is how inclusivity is now informing the very way we think about design. Designers are no longer designing for a singular "muse"; they are designing for the myriad identities that exist in the world today. This evolution is a creative challenge, one that forces us to question long-held norms about beauty and form. It requires us to engage with fashion in a deeper, more meaningful way—moving beyond what looks good to ask ourselves what feels good, what empowers, and what connects.
When Rihanna launched her Savage x Fenty lingerie line, it marked a turning point. Her runway shows featured women of all shapes, sizes, and ethnicities—not as tokens of diversity, but as an integral part of her brand’s identity. In doing so, Rihanna set a new standard for inclusivity in the industry, one that echoed the growing call for fashion to reflect the reality of the world we live in. The push for diversity, however, is not just about aesthetics. The inclusion of various body types, ethnicities, and genders challenges the fashion industry to think differently about design itself. We’re no longer just creating for one “ideal” customer. We’re designing for people whose needs, tastes, and desires are as diverse as they are. Fashion, as a result, becomes a more fluid and adaptive art form—one that honours the personal stories and unique experiences of the wearer.
In my work, this ethos is deeply embedded in how we approach design. We believe that fashion should be a celebration of individuality, not conformity. Our collections are built around versatility and fluidity, allowing women to curate their wardrobes in ways that reflect their journey. To me, inclusivity is about offering choices—choices that allow a woman to express every facet of who she is, in all her complexity. Fashion should not impose limits; it should break them down. But inclusivity isn’t just about size, race, or physical ability. It’s about creating space for all identities—gender, age, and beyond. I am heartened to see brands embracing models across the gender spectrum, showcasing the beauty of fluidity, and rejecting the binary constructs that have for so long dominated the industry. Similarly, the rise of older models on the runway is a reminder that style knows no age and that elegance, grace, and confidence only deepen with time.
Yet, the work is far from over. There remains a need for more representation, particularly behind the scenes. Fashion houses and brands need to continue diversifying their teams—designers, stylists, editors, photographers—because true inclusivity must be woven into the very fabric of the industry, not just showcased on the runway. As someone who leads a largely women-led team, I understand firsthand the power of diversity in fostering creativity and innovation. When we bring different perspectives into the design process, we create something richer, more textured, and ultimately more meaningful.
For those of us who deeply care about the role fashion plays in society—designers, creators, consumers—this movement towards inclusivity strikes at the core of who we are. We understand that our choices, from the brands we wear to the people we put on the runway, speak volumes. And in that understanding, we see that fashion has the power to be transformative. It’s a form of storytelling, a visual language that whispers of freedom, individuality, and connection.
Consider the difference between a fashion show where all the models look the same versus one where the runway is a vibrant mosaic of shapes, sizes, ethnicities, and identities. The latter offers something much richer—it’s not just a display of clothing but a celebration of humanity. And in that celebration, fashion becomes transcendent. We are no longer passive observers but active participants in a movement that reflects the beauty of who we are as individuals and as a collective. But inclusivity, in its truest form, is not just about adding more faces to a campaign or widening a size range. It’s about dismantling the very systems that once upheld exclusivity and rewriting the narrative from the inside out.
In tracing this history, it’s clear that the impact of inclusivity goes beyond the fashion industry. It touches on our collective understanding of beauty, identity, and worth. Fashion, as it continues to evolve, has the potential to not only reflect the world as it is but to shape the world as it should be—a world where everyone belongs, and everybody is celebrated.