Dr. Chiranjiv Chhabra
01-Sep-2025
Inputs by: Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Chief Dermatologist and Founder of Alive Wellness clinics
Having worked in dermatology for almost three decades, I find that some questions continue to come up regardless of how much awareness we try to build. One such question is whether vitamin C and sunscreen should be used together. The hesitation is understandable. Skincare routines today are crowded with serums, masks, and treatments that promise quick fixes. Patients want to know if combining products is truly necessary or if it might do more harm than good. My experience, supported by years of clinical research, is that vitamin C and sunscreen not only work well together but, when used correctly, provide a strong defence against sun damage, pigmentation, and premature ageing.
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is among the most researched antioxidants in dermatology. Its value lies in its ability to neutralise free radicals, unstable molecules formed when the skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, pollution, or even stress. Left unchecked, these free radicals damage skin cells, accelerate ageing, and worsen conditions like pigmentation and dullness. For Indian skin, this becomes particularly relevant. Our climate exposes us to high levels of UV radiation throughout the year. Added to this is urban pollution, which has been shown to deplete natural antioxidants in the skin. As a result, even younger patients often complain of patchy tone, tanning, or persistent pigmentation. Vitamin C, when applied topically, replenishes the skin’s defences and also plays a role in collagen synthesis, which supports firmness and repair.
The challenge lies in stability. Pure Vitamin C is highly unstable when exposed to light and air. Formulations, therefore, matter. Well-designed serums use stabilisers or derivatives to ensure the ingredient remains effective by the time it reaches the skin.
If Vitamin C is the repair team, sunscreen is the shield. It prevents UVA and UVB rays from penetrating the skin in the first place. Without sunscreen, the skin remains exposed to direct DNA damage, photoageing, and an increased risk of skin cancers. While Indian skin benefits from higher melanin content, which offers some natural protection, it also makes us more prone to pigmentation disorders such as melasma or post-inflammatory marks. This is why dermatologists stress sunscreen as non-negotiable.
Patients often ask whether vitamin C becomes less effective when layered under sunscreen. In practice, the opposite is true. Vitamin C reduces oxidative stress that sunscreen alone cannot block. Sunscreen, in turn, reduces the burden of UV damage that vitamin C would otherwise need to counter. When used together, Vitamin C serum applied first and sunscreen layered on top, they create a complementary system that is far more effective than either alone.
A related myth is that vitamin C increases photosensitivity. Evidence shows that, when used under sunscreen, vitamin C actually reduces sensitivity by strengthening antioxidant defence. The order of application is the key: antioxidant serum in the morning, followed by broad-spectrum sunscreen.
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For most Indian patients, a vitamin C serum in the range of 10 to 20 per cent is suitable. Concentrations below this may not deliver visible results, while higher percentages risk irritation, especially for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Application once in the morning is sufficient.
The sunscreen used should be at least SPF 30, though SPF 50 is advisable for anyone spending time outdoors. Tinted sunscreens are increasingly popular and helpful for Indian skin tones as they block visible light, another contributor to pigmentation. Reapplication every three hours is ideal if outdoors, though most office-goers can manage with one morning application and a top-up if they step out at midday.
When I ask patients to commit to this combination for a few months, the results are almost always noticeable. The skin shows less tanning after sun exposure, pigmentation patches lighten, and overall clarity improves. International research supports this, with controlled trials showing a measurable reduction in photodamage when antioxidants are combined with sunscreen. In Indian practice, the results are visible across age groups—from teenagers dealing with uneven tanning to older patients concerned with fine lines and age spots.
(Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Celebrity Dermatologist and founder Alive Wellness clinics)
A patient who recently moved from Delhi to Bengaluru told me she had always struggled with stubborn tanning despite applying sunscreen. After adding a stable Vitamin C serum to her morning routine, she noticed that her skin tone remained more even through the summer. In another case, a middle-aged gentleman with melasma saw a marked reduction in dark patches after six months of consistent use of both products. These are not isolated outcomes; they represent a pattern we see regularly in the clinic.
The market is crowded with Vitamin C serums and sunscreens. What matters is not just the concentration of Vitamin C but also the formulation and whether it has been tested for stability. Brands that follow pharmaceutical-grade manufacturing standards, including a few Indian labels and international options like Alive + Well, tend to deliver more reliable outcomes. Sunscreens, too, should be broad-spectrum and dermatologically tested. Patients with acne may prefer gel-based sunscreens, while those with dry skin can opt for creamier formulations.
There are no shortcuts to skin health. While marketing often tempts us with miracle products, the truth is that consistency with proven basics matters more. A routine as simple as cleansing, applying a Vitamin C serum, and finishing with sunscreen every morning builds a strong foundation for skin resilience. For Indian skin, facing the combined challenges of heat, UV radiation, and pollution, this pairing offers significant long-term protection.
As with all skincare, personalisation is important. Those with sensitive or reactive skin should consult a dermatologist before starting active ingredients. But for most, Vitamin C and sunscreen are not rivals. They are partners and one of the most effective partnerships we can recommend for daily skin health.
(Cover Credits: Instagram @khushikapoor)
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